Skull Set 2
After I have disassembled the skateboard and sanded it down, I prime it with pro-color black. I dilute pro-color flesh I, flesh II, sienna and coffee with water, each at a 1:1 ratio. I will need these later.
You can position the skull stencil anywhere on the object, depending on your taste and design ideas. Secure the stencil and mask the edges, so that you’ll have no problems with overspraying. Then fill the shape unevenly with pro-color white. Due to the light source, there are areas that need to be a bit brighter. I’ll add a little more white there. This will bring out a nice 3 D effect. At this point, if I notice that the edge looks too soft or some of the color has ended up under the stencil, I can correct this with pro-color black.
Now I put the inside stencil directly on top of the skull shape and spray over it with pro-color sienna. The stencil protects the areas that need to remain light. The paint should be sprayed in a way that it looks stronger towards the edges and softer towards the centre. This way you will reach more depth and get a nice 3 D effect. I lift the stencil a bit on one side and I check if I have enough contrast. If the result is still not strong enough, I’ll go over it once more. Generally speaking, you should rather spray too little than too much and let your object become too dark (too light).
Now I use the outline stencil again and I soften some of the edges that still look a bit too sharp with pro-color sienna. On curves, the light is visually broken. Therefore, you should apply a bit more color to those areas in order to reach a nice shadow effect. Adding some coffee brown to the eye sockets and to the nasal and oral cavities creates even more depth. Then gently spray over the white areas with pro-color flesh. That gives it a more natural bone colour.
The spaces between the teeth I draw with a crayon.
Here you can see the finished skull. You can combine the "Skull" stencil with the "Real Flames" stencil, for instance, to create a flaming skull for your skateboard.